The pure charm of Vosne: Anne-Francois Gros and Family

As an intro, I think it is important to clarify the various branches of the Gros Family.  Domaine Jean Gros of Vosne Romanee was split into three parts in 1996, among their three children: Michel, Bernard, and Anne-Francoise.  They each began their own domaines, known as Domaine Michel Gros based in Vosne, Gros Frere et Soeur based in Vosne, and Anne-Francoise Gros based in Beaune.  To further complicate the picture, there is also another domaine owned and run by cousins of the Jean Gros side of the family, that of Anne Gros based in Vosne.  Quite confusing indeed….four different Gros family domaines….ah, the details of Burgundy….

On a sunny January morning, I meet with Caroline, Mathias, and Francois Parent, Anne-Francoise’s daughter, son, and husband, at their facility in Beaune.  Winemaker Francois has a deep understanding of a broad range of terroirs on both the Cote de Beaune and Cotes de Nuits, having run both his family domaine (www.parent-pommard.com) in Pommard alongside that of his wife (www.af-gros.com) for many, many years; the history and photos on both sites are wonderful, and well worth perusing.
From the outset, I am absolutely taken by the stunning purity and charm of the wines, crafted with a particularly decliate touch.  Even the Pommard and Savigny wines have a cool focused suavity that refelect this signature elegant hand.  The wines very much capture the loveliness that Vosne and Chambolle can offer unlike any other place.  I am giddy for the opportunity to offer three different single parcel Vosne village wines side by side;  all three are signature queenly, spiced Vosne, with subtle differences giving each character.  The Vosne Aux Reas could be the best quality price Vosne that i’ve tried anytime in memory……a case buy no brainer for the Burgundy lover….
Here’s the list o’ goodies that i’m starting with, all 2009s.  The accompanying 2010s will follow in the Fall, with marginal price increases based on higher prices for the lower yields, and the exchange rate (5-10% difference max).  These notes are for the 2009s, no press yet on the 2010s….to my taste, they’re gorgeous……

Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits $29, or $25 in a mixed case:
(from vines ABOVE Vosne) “A ripe but perfumed and pretty nose offers up delicate red berry fruit and stone aromas that merge into pure, precise and utterly delicious flavors that possess a hint of animale on the persistent finish. This is a lovely Bourgogne and worth a look.” 86-88 points BH ‘sweet spot’ selection

Savigny les Beaune 1er cru ‘Clos des Guettes’ $49, or $45 in a mixed case : “An expressive and pretty nose reveals notes of pungent earth, wet stone and red currant that introduce rich, detailed, intense and vibrant medium-bodied flavors that possess dense but fine tannins and excellent balance and length.” 89-92 points BH ‘sweet spot’ selection

Chambolle Musigny villages $59, or $50 in a mixed case : 
” A very ripe though reasonably fresh and bright nose of red currant that is nuanced by hints of minerality and blue berry liqueur. There is good richness to the full, delicious and voluminous flavors that enjoy an abundance of dry extract that buffers the firm, balanced and persistent finish. A lovely villages.” 89-91 points BH ‘sweet spot’ selection

Vosne Romanee Clos de la Fontaine $59 or $50 for 6+ bottles :
“An attractively spiced nose of earth, cassis and red currant aromas leads to fresh, intense and detailed anise-infused flavors that exhibit a touch of oak on the delicious and mouth coating finish.” 87-89 points BH

Vosne Romanee Maizieres $59 or $50 for 6+ bottles : 

“A slightly riper nose reveals notes of cassis, soy, hoisin, cassis and red berry liqueur notes. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors are both

 velvety and seductively textured with a floral quality to the impressively long finish. A fine if not truly exceptional villages.” 88-91 points BH

Vosne Romanee ‘Aux Reas’ $59 or $50 in a mixed case :
“A ripe, elegant and admirably pure blend of red and blue pinot fruit, spice, earth and hints of violets leads to rich, supple and opulent flavors that are underpinned by relatively fine tannins and excellent length. This forward and supple offering is very Vosne in character and worth a look.” 89-91 points BH ‘sweet spot selection’

Richebourg Grand cru $299 net : “there is plenty of vibrancy and life to the mineral-driven, intense and focused big-bodied and overtly muscular flavors that are beautifully precise on the incredibly backward and austere finish. This will require at least 15 years to be at its best and 20 would not surprise me. Impressive as hell but don’t buy it if you don’t have the discipline to wait as it would be a waste to open this too young.”  93-96 points BH 

It is good that these wines find their way stateside once again, as they have been out of the American marketplace for a few years.  These prices are lower than anything America has ever seen, and are actually the best prices globally.  The beauty of Vosne doesn’t get more affordable…..
If you would care for a brief offering of some of the Parent wines, please inquire.  There are some great 1ers: Pommard Epenots, Pezerolles, and Arvelets; Beaune Boucherottes are standouts.
As always, folks, if you have any questions about the wines, the domaine, or just life and times in general, you can find me at rob@downtoearthwines.net.
To the health of you and yours, and the glory of Vosne Romanee!!!
Cheers.
RP