Description
(2016) – “This “Grosser Piesporter” – another legally halbtrocken but decidedly dry-tasting Steinmetz offering – is made up of two small lots that had only recently been blended and were bottled the day before I tasted in late July 2017. Pungent scents and tangy juices of pineapple and grapefruit combine for a startlingly invigorating personality, if one that – for now at least – some tasters may perceive as downright edgy. A remarkable sense of density and stony suffusion informs the polished palate, impressions one is tempted (whether or not accurately) to associate with the tiny, peronospora-affected yields in these vineyards. A gripping, vibratory finish delivers grapefruit peel piquancy, pineapple core tang and a shimmering sense of crystalline, stony impingements. The overall combination here of energy and density with alcoholic levity is striking, and bodes well for bottle development, in the course of which I suspect that the surreptitious influence of 13 grams of residual sugar will be even more positively felt.” 94 David Schildknecht
