Here we encounter a very special site, in many ways…..this is a Monopole of the estate, meaning they are the sole proprietor. It came into the family’s possession in 1813 when the local people gifted the entire area to the Richters. Why such a gift? It was a thank you to Constantin’s great-great-great-great Grandfather Franz Ludwig Niessen who managed to convince Napoléon not to destroy the village as he retreated from the battle of Leipzig. His power of persuasion? Ye olde big bags of money. :0
The vineyard was then named after the Queen of Prussia, Louisa, herself a strong resister of Napoléon’s presence. It has always been celebrated as a top Grand cru site, classified in 1885 as an equal peer among the greats of Brauneberg, Wehlen, Graach, Piesport, and the the Scharzhofberg.
This is a entirely south facing, steep quartz dominant site, a very rare soil type in the Mosel which is much moreso known for its variety of red/gray/blue slates and clay. It is in a cool side valley that runs east/west, and is often compared to the microclimate of the Ruwer valley.
The wine arrives with spönti notes (spontaneous yeast funki), or as has become a verb in German, it “Prüms” aromatically. It is slightly smoky, with subtle small red fruited/currant aromas. Constantin nailed it (obviously not his first go-around with these wines… ;0 ) when he suggested juniper, as it has hints of foresty/herbal aromatics, but juniper really nails it. This is certainly not your “typical” middle Mosel animal, more wild. After an initial rich palate entry, it turns weightless and fine, with subtle echoes of the red forest fruits. In its mineral attack, it is not linear as one finds in the laser beam drive of the Juffer, for example. It moreso comes from the bottom up in creeper fashion, like a slowly dissolving mineral solid that mounts from the bottom up; this is apparently a hallmark of Riesling on quartz. In complexity, singularity and plain deliciousness, this stuff is outstanding. A little star * here in my notes.
“This gorgeous Kabinett harvested at 85° Oechsle is still marked by residual scents from spontaneous fermentation at this early stage and needs quite some airing to exhibit its stunningly fresh and vibrant scents of grapefruit, cassis, white melon, herbs and spices. The wine is juicy and lively on the palate and leaves a superb cocktail of chalky minerals, grapefruit, white peach and spicy herbs in the long finish. This will be a breathtaking Kabinett at maturity once the acidity will have mellowed away and integrated into the juicy aromatics. 2025-2045” 94 points Mosel Fine Wines
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