An insane insanely good value from Fabio Marchioni, in the limestone dominant Matelica appellation. Organically farmed. As good as it gets…..a tre bicchieri winning wine for $14…..
Ian d’Agata’s review of the 2012 NOT THIS 2015 echoes my sentiment…..:
“Pale straw-green. Knockout aromas of quince, pear, white peach and white flowers are complicated by lemony minerality on the vibrant, captivating nose. Rich and broad on entry, then explosive in the middle palate, saturating the mouth with bright, lively floral and fresh citrus flavors that are intensified by penetrating acidity. Finishes extremely long and creamy-rich, expanding to coat the palate and teeth with lingering white peach and floral flavors. The bright acidity conveys an almost weightless mouthfeel to this seamless, rich, extremely concentrated wine. You can tell that owner Fabio Marchionni studied white wine in Germany. This is but one of many outstanding vintages for this wine. Let me be clear: I think it is probably Italy’s single greatest white wine buy.” 94 points
The heart and soul of the production hails from NE facing vineyards of massale selection clones (think heirloom variety as opposed to “store bought”) planted on limestone rich sand/clay/silt soils, farmed organically since 1995. Fabio is thrilled with the potential of his ’15 Verdicchio, in line with the strengths of the 2012 vintage: great concentration, dry extract, and seamlessly counterbalancing cut/acidity. Weighing in at 12.5% alcohol, 6.5 g/L of acidity, and an off the charts 23 g/L of dry extract, Fabio is back on top after the more than difficult 2014 (that was still pretty darn good, but…). Indeed, there is a reason why Ian D’Agata of Vinous trumpets this wine as one of, if not THE, greatest single white wine values in all of Italy. I can’t tell you how many ga-ga fans of this wine there are out there, as the joy-pleasure-cost quotient is off the charts…….