2018 Bürklin Wolf Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling Premier cru

2018 Bürklin Wolf Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling Premier cru


From the parcel sandwiched between the Forster Pechstein Grand cru and the Wachenheimer Rechbächel Premier cru, I anticipate very very good things here. In fact, a portion of this vineyard was classified as being equally noble to the Forster Grand crus in the Bavarian Land Taxation laws of 1828 (one of Germany’s first “classification” system). This was unavailable to me in the 2014 vintage, so this time around, i’m wasting no time…..Like the Rechbächel, this should offer nearly Grand cru quality in Premier cru clothing (and pricetag)…..

“From weathered sandstone soils with basalt influence, the 2019 Wachenheimer Gerümpel P.C. is very pure and remains reductive even after 10 days in the opened bottle. The wine is laser sharp and precise on the flinty, lemon-scented and comparatively brighter-toned nose. Intense and creamy on the palate but also racy and stunningly chalky, it has a tight and elegant structure but is also sharp as a sword (or an excellent Chablis)—this premier cru needs a couple of years to tell us more. It’s too tight for a longer while, I’d suppose, but it is tensioned, structured and promising. This is surely a long-distance runner, so keep it, if you can catch it. 94-96 points” Stephan Reinhardt


“Bürklin-Wolf owns just under half of this 32-acre Einzellage whose soils reflect the transition from active-lime-rich degraded sandstone to the basalt of neighboring Forster Pechstein. Peach and pear are so strongly marked by their pit and seeds here that a glowing sense of positive bitterness accompanies their succulent fruit on a satiny, subtly creamy palate and makes for pithy, piquant finishing grip. Typically for this wine, as Libelli notes, acidity comparable to that harbored by other Bürklin-Wolf Wachenheimers of the vintage here gives an impression of being significantly lower; and one also has the sense of a wine slow to open (the expression “hard nut to crack” comes to mind). But Libelli is confident that the wine will reveal a more complex and open character with time in bottle.” 92 David Schildknech


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