Kévin is graciously allowing me to make early reservations for the following three Côte Rôties, which are not to be bottled before the spring time. This is one is a business card of the estate, of sorts, another perennially way over achieving bottling from a blend of their blonde schist holdings in Triote (the first parcel replanted by mom and dad), Lancement, Combard and Mollard. This has been their main estate bottling since 1995, renamed in 2006. This year’s cuvée contains 10-15% whole cluster, aged in 25% new wood, from roughly 30+ year old vines. This comes across as much riper aromatically, with even more mineral mass/dry extract, with greater tannic structure. Whereas the Sybarine is an absolute charmer and will give more pleasure in the shorter term, this cuvée will age longer and perhaps offers more evolutionary potential. In substance and value, this one is also a winner winner chicken dinner, as ageworthy Côte Rôtie, particularly from the Côte Blonde, can be prohibitively expensive. As an intro to the power-meets-finesse of the terres blondes soils and the house, this is as good as it gets…..
“(20% whole clusters) Brilliant purple. High-pitched dark berry, floral and spice scents, complicated by subtle smoke and cracked pepper flourishes. Sweet and penetrating on the palate, offering intense blueberry and cherry preserve flavors that deepen on the back half. Shows a spicy quality on the youthfully tannic finish, which hangs on with strong, floral-tinged persistence.” 91-94 Josh Raynolds