2017 Dirler-Cadé Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes

2017 Dirler-Cadé Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes

$23.00

“Pale straw-green. Very elegant yet powerful aromas and flavors of pomaceous fruit and aromatic herbs, complicated by hints of graphite and white flowers. Finishes long and clean, featuring a lovely mineral undertone, refreshing saline bite and repeating green apple and nectarine nuances (13.5% alcohol, 4.5 g/l residual sugar, and 7 g/l total acidity). A lovely, deep Riesling wine that offers a real step up in concentration and refinement from Dirler-Cadé’s Spiegel and Kitterlé bottlings in 2016. According to Jean Dirler, the presence of deep, porous clay formations in the soil helps the Saering perform very well in drought years such as 2016; by contrast, the Spiegel also has clay soils, but they are more compact and have less water retention capacity.” 92 Ian D’Agata

SKU: 3760-1 Category:

Description

The Dirler Sylvaner stands as one of the best made in the region, along with those from Agathe Bursin and Jean Boxler. I think that Ian’s score here is a bit low, in fact, as this ’17 was a plain knockout to my taste. There are many people who are annually on this small geeky bandwagon, as the pricepoint is ridiculous for such a substantial and delicious wine. A little * awarded here, this is as-good-as-it-gets class-in-a-glass by any name…..
“Bright straw-green. Aromas of chamomile, nectarine and ripe apple; this has a riper and rounder aroma profile than usual because of the hot vintage. Deep, dense and smooth, with flavors similar to the aromas; surprisingly lively acidity provides lift, but this is a rather round Sylvaner wine. The long aftertaste hints at pear and chlorophyll. Spent 10 months aging in very old (150 years) 30-hL foudres. A blend of grapes from the Heisse Wanne in the heart of the Kessler Grand Cru (61-year-old vines!) and a small parcel not far removed from the Saering Grand Cru. This was Yvonne Dirler’s favorite wine (she was Jean Dirler’s grandmother; he tells me she liked eating Sylvaner grapes too, and in fact, Sylvaner is one of the best-tasting wine grapes of all). Frankly, it’ s one of Dirler-Cadè’s wines that I like best too, and it ages remarkably well.” 91 Ian D’Agata

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