With the next two wines, both the Charmes Chambertin and Mazoyères Chambertin, we find what I consider to be some of the greatest examples of their ilk, each the realest of real deals in jaw dropping Grand cru intesity and class, and I don’t give a darn who you are, you simply can’t fail to notice such qualitative brilliance, particularly so for the Mazoyères. Both Grand crus are quite sizeable and can often be somewhat underwhelming (à la Echezeaux and the Clos de Vougeot). However, this is not the case whatsoever chez Taupenot; Mark Fincham of Domaine Tawse/Marchand-Tawse and I were discussing how Romain is one of the standout producers who buck that trend, big time. The Charmes Chambertin is from two principal eras, half of the .57 hectares planted 50-60 years ago, and half from young vines planted twenty years ago. I tasted the ’17, and it was wonderfully red fruited and succulent, with a powerful sense of stoniness that is unfortunately not often found in examples of Charmes Chambertin. In spherically expansive, palate coating flavor, of noteworthy length and mineral dynamism, this is delicious……I am not sure which I would go for first, the ’16 or ’17, but both are offered here. A little * awarded here.
“Bright red-ruby. Slightly medicinal aromas of blackberry, licorice and violet complicated by a rocky quality. Pungent, tangy and high-pitched, offering a very fine-grained texture to its flavors of cassis, black cherry and violet; aeration brought a slightly less black note of raspberry and sexy savory soil tones. From vines on very shallow soil just across the Route des Grands Crus from Chambertin, this wine offers terrific punch and building sweetness. Both these vines and those in Mazoyères-Chambertin were planted shortly after World War II but a small part of the Charmes was replanted in 1998.” 92-94 Steve Tanzer for the 2016