This is just the second year for this wine that hails from 72 year old vines in the SW facing portion of the Bollenberg, in soils that are predominantly calcaire with some sand. Aromatically, it shyly presents very pure and high toned aromatics of ripe citrus (lime) and mineral salts; I could tell from the aroma alone that this was going to be a rockhead dry wine. Then in the mouth, it is a tightly coiled, implosive, austere style Riesling in a style that is for lovers of high acid, linear calcaire minerality, weightless austerity, white florals, and citrus. Pretty damn good, if the Chablis like dry style sounds like your cup of tea. This may prove to be too austere for many people, but I am sure that with food in a naked preparation, like white fish with only olive oil or very light cream sauce, this will prove most dynamic and refreshing. Like Dolly Parton said : “Figure out who you are, and do it on purpose.” It seems that Ian was quite impressed with this wine last year. This year’s is a spitting image, with 9/gL acidity and 13% alcohol. I found it to be a knockout once again for its cloudlike weightlessness, chiseled precision, and shimmering purity…..I gave it another little *…..
“Luminous pale straw-green. Aromas of green apple, chamomile, minerals and jasmine. Laser-like acidity nicely frames and lifts the bold green apple, sage and kumquat flavors. The finish is long, clean and vibrant. These vines are 60 years of age and are planted on mostly sandy-clay soil. This is the first vintage ever of this wine made by Agathe Bursin, as she just recently bought this plot of vines. Lovely Riesling.” 92 Ian D’Agata for the 2016, NOT THE 2017 OFFERED HERE
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