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The more that I taste the Fürst wines, the more that I am blown away by the single most compelling examples I have experienced of zen power-without-weight complexity in Pinot Noir to be found in Germany. His reputation in Europe is that of the finest estates in all of Germany, yet in the US he is virtually an unknown entity. As a bonkers fanatical Pinot Noir lover working with over 50 estates in Burgundy, I can unequivocally state that any serious Burgundy lover would be remiss to not at least check in on exactly what I and oooodles of other wine lovers/critics are talking about, as his Grand crus are worthy of every bit of consideration relative to their French counterparts. I am particularly gaga over his Klingenberger Schlossberg vineyard, a Chambollean example of airy treble toned mineral intensity, with impossibly gorgeous tiny red fruited inner mouth perfume and weightlessness. The vineyard itself is as majestic a site as any you will ever encounter, its STEEP sandstone terraces carved into the hillside reminiscent of Côte Rôtie. With the amount of manual work and cost required to work such land, it is not a proposition one approaches to make money, even at these eye popping prices. As Paul told me, he does it for love and to preserve such a majestic and remarkable heritage. His 2013 Schlossberg, offered here, won Pinot Noir (aka Spätburgunder in German) of the year last year in the Gault Millau, as it routinely breaks hearts of Pinot lovers everywhere, in every single vintage. For those who want to check out what the Schlossberg is about but who can't pony up to the Grand cru pricetag, I would steer you towards the ortswein (villages) level Klingenberger bottling, which is essentially declassified Schlossberg from young vines.... -
Again, their villages level wines offer silllly good value. ""Very clear and open, with lovely ripe peach and some flinty aromas on the nose starts the 2014 Deidesheimer Riesling trocken -- announcing a more accessible wine compared to the Wachenheimer. The coolish/warm character of the nose is reflected on the palate, which is medium to full-bodied, very intense, concentrated and very expressive in the piquant and juicy finish. The wine is pure and powerful, very aromatic but not fat or big at all. It's simply sexy in its piquant and racy richness. " 91 points Stephan Reinhardt -
The slate soil twin to the Vulkangestein, I didn't get to taste this last week, but I buy it every year. One of my favorite dry wine buys, year in and year out. Based on what I sensed in the Vulkan and beyond, i'm going deep..... John Gilman's review: "The Schiefergestein bottling is all younger vine fruit (thirty to thirty-five years of age) from the Felseneck, with the grapes brought in a week before those destined for the GG bottling in 2014. The wine is deep, complex and very serious on both the nose and palate, with a fine bouquet of grapefruit, lemon, stony slate undertow, wild yeasts, gentle herbal complications and a topnote of grapefruit peel. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and stony in personality, with a fine core, excellent focus and grip and a very long, vibrant and youthful finish. This is as good as plenty of folks GG bottlings and a dynamite bargain! 2018-2040. 91+." October '15 arrival.
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The '14 Kieselberg was recently chosen in the Weinwelt publication as the top 1er cru Riesling in all of Germany. In fact, this is the last year that the Kieselberg will be offered as an Erste Lage 1er cru wine. In 2015, it will sold as a GG. In value for the money, this is flat out terrific.
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Their Villages or Ortswein level bottling from Ruppertsberg is usually a bit richer than those of Wachenheim and Deidesheim, due to the deeper clay rich soils. -
From a 1.59 hectare parcel From immediately below the iconic monopole Wachenheimer Rechbächel Premier cru, this is a complete wine of rich fruit intensity and salivating sandstone salinity. It is remarkable how much wine you get for your money in all of these..... ""The 2014 Wachenheimer Goldbächel Riesling Trocken PC is very clear, pure and subtly intense in its lemony fruit, which reminds me of a dash of lemon juice on herbs grown on warm, flinty sandstone soil. Full-bodied, round and elegant, with a delicate and ripe acidity, this is a very elegant, powerful and juicy wine. There is a lingering fruit intensity and power, but also stimulating purity and salinity from the sandstone soils. The wine reveals a lovely grip in the finish and displays mango flavors in the aftertaste." 92 points Stephan Reinhardt for the 2014, NOT THE 2015 OFFERED HERE. -
Extra, extra! Read all about it!!! This was a wow wow wow exciting introduction: for the first time, the Fürsts were approved to create a 1er cru, aka Erste Lage, from their home village of Burgstadt in the variably steep Centgrafenberg. It contains fruit from their grandest Grand cru parcel, the sweet spot within the Centgrafenberg called the Hundsruck, as well as a selection of mostly upper slope parcels from the "regular" Centgrafenberg. From the first whiff, my eyes got REAL BIG, as the layered sense of class and complexity was plain stunning, continuing the "overperforming" character of the Centgrafenberg in 2015. Small forest red fruit aromatics of noteworthy purity and precision lead to a palate impression of pure silk, with a sense of filigree finesse and complexity that I usually associate with the Schlossberg GG.....its sense of being perfectly harmonized and precisely poised is simply incredible, not to mention the value quotient offered that truly does express the "special something" that is at the heart of the house touch. As this is the first vintage for the wine, they have priced it very favorably, hoping to have a wine in the range that is more approachable pricewise than the GGs, while still presenting the nobility of their finest. I absolutely flipped for this one, and cannot encourage you heartily enough to get a 6pk/case of this one, another "Rob-insists-on-bringing-this-in-even-though-Rudi-wasn't-planning-to" Down to Earth national exclusive......I've even lined up some magnums, as the quality is plain tremendous!!! A little * awarded here. DON'T MISS THIS!!!
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"This originates, as in 2014, with mid-slope Gerümpel fruit that in 2015 was no lower in must weight than that in a neighboring parcel which informed a wine labeled as Gerümpel. Scents and pure, clear, juicy fruit of apple and white peach take on a wonderfully saliva-inducing savor akin to raw scallop on a silken palate and in a mouthwatering finish that invigorates thanks to tangy fruit skin and piquant fruit pit. Residual sugar in the upper range for legal Trockenheit enhances the impression of generous fruitiness, while shaving a bit off of finished alcohol, thus promoting buoyancy." 92 points David Schildknecht
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The Musenhang is from limestone soils at the very top of the hill in Forst, right up against the forest. I would say that the Mosbachers are somewhat reknowned for this bottling, as its cool, chiseled limestone punch and citrus fruit freshness offer an undeniably complex Forster experience at a pittance of a ticket price. This bottling is always picked later, and always has a smidge higher acidity than its Erste Lage stablemates. I would say that the '16 has a gentler sense of attack (8.somethin' g/L acidity, which ain't low...) versus the '15s electric sense of tension (10g/L acidity!), but I think that on a given day and with a given plate, I may prefer the 2016's inviting sense of playfulness versus the raw power of the 2015. Again, this presents another mixed 6pk opportunity that will offer wonderful comparative tasting. A little * awarded here. 13% alc. "This high-elevation parcel bordered by forest was picked at the end of the Mosbacher harvest, on October 1, and the site itself as well as the longer hang-time it prompted may explain the bittersweet floral effusion (iris, gentian) and bright fresh-fruit character (lime, white peach) of the aromatics as well as the primary juiciness and animation exhibited on a polished palate. This finishes with exhilarating lift, refreshment and transparency to floral and stony nuances. And I don’t doubt Mosbacher when she predicts even greater refinement with time. Incidentally, the wine boasts 10 grams of acidity, amazingly high for a 2015 from the Pfalz Mittelhaardt, and based on its performance you can bet that acid was almost entirely tartaric." 92 points David Schildknecht
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There are but three Erste Lage vineyards in Forst, with the Mosbachers having holdings in all three. The first two are from lower lying vineyards adjacent to the village, with the Stift being on the north side of town, and even further "downhill" than all other Forst vineyards. It appears that I didn't in fact taste this wine, but the "completionist" in me feels compelled to include it. 12.5% alcohol. In the Mosbacher's brief description: "Vivid fruits, lively and round."
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The fireworks show only continued with this grand finale nectar-of-the-gods, a baby beerenauslese here called an auslese goldkapsel. In magical, weightless fashion as only can be achieved by riesling in great sites and by a knowing hand, this elixir is fascinatingly complex in its interplay of fruit, spices, florals, and intense intense minerality. There were but 60 liters made, i.e. 160 half bottles, whose 140 g/L residual sugar are electrified by 11.8 g/L acidity, proving itself to be a jaw dropping dance for the senses that any wine loving soul should experience. Again, the value quotient here is off the charts to my taste/experience....get what you can justify, and enjoy a full human lifetime's worth of glacial evolution, if you can keep your hands off, not that you should!! A little * star awarded here. Sweet God how beautiful!!! " Representing a botrytis selection picked out along with the corresponding Spätlese and Grosses Gewächs harvests, this features decadently ripe Persian melon and muskmelon on a creamy, glycerol-rich palate, leading to a lusciously lingering, honey-glazed finish into which fresh lime and white peach inject unexpected freshness and primary juiciness. The upshot is an animating tingle and an irresistible desire to take the next sip. This Riesling’s sense of sweetness reflects uncanny balance and serves to perfectly support overripe and botrytized fruit character, suggesting not one gram too little nor too much residual sugar. (375 ml)" 93 points David Schildknecht
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A parcellary selection of some 80% botrytized grapes, this stuff is plain magical nectar in its spicy interplay of all things fruity, floral, and intensely mineral. At 9% alcohol, 100 g/L residual sugar, and 11g/L of acidity, its dance is plain mesmerizing and pure class, no matter how you slice it. Very very little is made, and only when the vintage allows for it. This is a plain outrageous value as well, as something of this nature found in the Mosel, for example, would certainly fetch far higher prices. A little star * awarded here. Any lover of prädikat style riesling must check these out...!! "Assembled from overripe and very lightly botrytized berries picked out along with the Grosses Gewächs harvest, this delivers luscious peach and muskmelon garlanded in honeysuckle on a silken, glycerol-rich palate, backed by judicious residual sugar. Stony underpinnings as well as mouthwatering salinity serve for contrast and help temper the wine’s sweetness. This imposing elixir demonstrates vividly how clarity, generous juiciness and lift are fully compatible with decadent overripeness." 92 points David Schildknecht